AS AMERICAN DINERS EXPAND THEIR HORIZONS to foods like sweetbreads and kale, there’s one area where palates remain conservative: seafood. Of the 27,300 fish species on earth, chef Michael Chernow says we only eat about five of them: tuna, salmon, halibut, sea bass and cod. And while it’s not evil to prefer cod over porgie, our limited tastes propel issues — species depletion, fish farms and a market in which 90% of American-consumed fish is imported.
So, Chernow, host of FYI’s Food Porn and co-founder of the Meatball Shop, had mixed emotions about opening a seafood restaurant. How would his place avoid these epidemic trends? The answer was Seamore’s, a sustainable seafood joint serving only abundant fish. However, Chernow has disruptively decided to skip ineffective soapbox lectures for a softer approach, relying on cooking skills to popularize underutilized species.